It's the night before I set off from beautiful Dunnet Head Lighthouse, 3 miles away from the stunning cliff tops at Brough beach. I'm filled with excitement and trepidation at the idea of adventure. Unsure what lay ahead, I lay down in my tent with a smile on my face and think this grass is really good padding.
Day 1
I wake up at 4.30am and am surprised at how sunny it is. I make a full breakfast of oats with fruit and nuts and some nettle tea. I realise there is no fresh water here and i'll have to make do with a litre and a half until I find some. Taking photos and washing everything well, I take 2 hours to pack down camp; I know that won't happen often.
My route today is Dunnet Head Lighthouse to Mybster via the B976
A lady I met at 7am waiting at the bus stop suggested going via the northern highland coast path for the scenery and as was to be a lesson I would learn often in the first week - I should have taken the lady advise having already walked 5 miles I stubbornly kept on my route. It was to be a fairly boring day on the road waving at cars and playing silly games with the farm animals I came across. See my instagram page for the Scottish Emus I tried to rev up and the cows I sang a vegan song to.
Not a lot of people to engage up here. Just beautiful weather and the smell of summer about to break.
Listening to music and dancing along I only stopped once for a bathroom/ tea/ stretch break.
Recommended alternate route: The Northern Highland Coast route head down the path from Dunnet Head Lighthouse to Brough and turn left after the houses follow the road until you see the sign for the coastal path. Once you reach John O'Groats follow the John O'Groats trail.
Why: You still get to start from the actual most Northern walkable point and you get more castles, scenery and no tics. There are more towns and services if you want to spread it over three days instead of two and stop off at Wick.
Song of the day: I am Free - Newsboys
Best thought: I can do this
Day 2 - Mybster to Dunbeath
Although the morning is warm and the sun is out early it only takes 5 minutes of sitting down, waiting for the water to boil on my cook pot for me to spot the first two tics. A quick check reveals two more on each leg and one on my lower back. Feeling dirty i clean with a wipe antiseptic the area and head off quickly.
With less enthusiasm than yesterday I try to focus on the sounds around me and get back in touch with nature. No music or distractions just me and the earth.
I know i'm going to need a rhythm over the next couple of months so I decide to test myself. So I spend a few hours walking with different foot placement and postures, leaning in different ways to try and see with what terrain do I feel most comfortable doing what.
Dunbeath was an absolute experience. Rhona from Inver Caravan Park was a treat and a big supporter of mental health awareness. I swear the shower heads in the showers were huge; enough to cover your entire body with water. The mirrors are huge - perfect for checking for tics and a Free washing machine.
Day 3 - Dunbeath to Helmsdale
Neil from the Spar in Dunbeath was interested in suicide prevention and we ended up chatting for about half an hour before I headed of in the morning. I left Dunbeath feeling great and motivated for the challenge ahead.
Today was the first day on the official John O'Groats trail and it is amazing to not be walking on the road. Teetering the edge of cliff faces and throwing my pack to jump over barbed wire fences, today felt like an adventure.
I had the best lunch spot - as you can see you have to walk/ balance across a narrow path but you end up on this epic hill spot over looking the beach and listening to the water pushing its way through the archway.
There is a book for people to write in that are walking the John O'Groats Trail. I spent 10 minutes flicking through and reading the comments before adding my own. If you happen to be doing the trail please do take the time to comment. I have seen a few of these on my travels and they are a great read.
After such an amazing day - Helmsdale was the cherry on top. First I meet Garry who not only had his own personal experience with suicide but knew the best camping spot. Right in the centre of town, on the river bank; down the steps near the public toilets.
If you just want a short day out I highly suggest these two towns and the area in-between - it is well worth the miles.
Day 4 - Helmsdale to Brora
My legs are super sore after not doing any Yoga and I'm not really that fussed about nailing the miles today. So as the John O'Groats Trail takes me back onto the A9, I decide to sneak through a gate at the side of some nice lady house, heading for the beach. When she catches me, instead of thrashing me with the plants she's holding; she tells me its a great idea to walk the beach instead of the road and lets me cut through her yard.
I spend the entire day singing to myself. Trying to catch the sneaky otters in a photo - no luck every time I get close they go under the water or swim away. At lunch I collect rocks to make this monument for someone who always shows love. Alternating between rocks and sand its not always easy walking but it is very peaceful.
There is an off grid caravan park along the coast here. It is full of the most wonderful people. First a lady comes running down the slope to ask if i want a cup of tea and then proceeds to feed me and charge my kindle. Debbie was an absolute life saver and her and her husband are avid cyclists, adventurers and mindfulness practicers.
We talk for about an hour and a half before I realise I am relaxing completely and need to crack on. I don't even make it a mile before running into Steve and Mike. Two people who were a crack up. Could relate to suicide and making their way in the world with as little impact as possible.
Steve sold his business, gave his money away to different charities and is doing up this van to live and travel. He spent his whole life thinking money would make him happy, but he found having less and living for yourself really made him happy.
This fire place Mike made this out of an old sewing machine, a pot lid and some random household items that you wouldn't expect. He is also building his own cabin, lives off solar power and is seriously resourcefully creative.
Tonight I camp near the brora golf course because the grass looks so soft and inviting. I find out later that this golf course is renowned as being one of the best in the entire UK and theres no doubting it with the views.
Day 5 - Brora to Dornoch
After the last three days of welcoming supportive people, I was sorely disappointed with the
service I received in Brora. The newsagents and Co-op didn't seem to like smelly people with backpacks looking for a compact mirror. Also just so you know - there is no compact mirror in Brora.
Luckily the day got much better. I met a couple of lads doing a cycle tour around the highlands for testicular cancer. A nice Scottish guy on a bike slowed down and complimented me on my singing (he was obviously even more tone deaf than me :) ).
I tried to be cheeky and do what I did the other day and walk down the coast to avoid the A9 - Do not do this. Yes the John O'Groats trail involves a lot of road walking but from Golspie it is necessary. Otherwise you will end up at Little Ferry. Which is worth the detour, its an absolutely brilliant coast walk with clean sandy beaches. A random swing in the middle of a sand bank. It was actually warm enough to paddle across the canal (if you can waterproof your pack I would highly recommend this as it is a short distance and not particularly deep) and it cuts of miles to reach the beautiful area of Embo and Dornoch.
Day 6 Dornoch to Delny
I woke up real early - it's probably important to note for the southern hemisphere's that it doesn't get dark till 11pm and stays dark for about 2 hours this far north. It means you can get heaps done and stay motivated for longer - I love it. So I started off at about 3am today
The bridge is amazing to look at - a nightmare to walk over. This is made for cars and the drivers do not appreciate you being on there. I am super glad to be doing it very early in the morning.
I often approach people, say hello and strike up a conversation. Lee is one of the first people I have met that has approached me in the same way. Friendly, open and curious; I didn't feel like he was hitting on me or going to rob me; the conversation flowed instantly and felt natural. Also he was super friendly and suggested I get food from the food bank if I was struggling for money and needed food. He then took me to the place I would have to register and to CCAST.
My entire day was magical after this. Truly touched by God, I still honestly can't believe how amazing some people are. Please read my blog on Delny Glamping and CCAST to learn more. If you live in the Tain area and are struggling with Mental Health Issues, need help looking for work or food please find CCAST. They offer a safe, judgement free place for people in need.
Day 7 - Delny to Inverness
I am super excited to finish the first week and spend the day reflecting on all the amazing people I have met and how much this walk is going to affect me.
I can not believe how many people have had experiences in which they can relate to people who have suicidal thoughts or even have made attempts.
When I was suicidal I didn't think that anyone would notice or care that I was gone. Every thought was consumed with so much self hatred that I couldn't fathom the impact it would have. From the stories people have shared with me this week, I believe this must be a common occurrence. We are wrong though!
The people you didn't think care or didn't notice you; at work, school, random acquaintances and those who you haven't spoken to in years; it will hurt them, shock them or make them think. When someone dies by suicide it has a ripple effect on the people around them and someone thinking of committing suicide does not know the effect they will have.
TIP 1: Make the people who admit they have suicidal thoughts, know how much they matter, how loved and needed they are.
Comments